can you put shellac over shellac

Good luck. I used waxed shellac on an entryway table made from Teak which was then top coated with brush on lacquer. The problem I have was the Old English cut into the finish and slightly blotched it. Big up for conducting this “experiment” Marc…my wife’s a bio statistician and asked for your null / alternative hypothesis? Not to be one to learn quickly, I repeated the performance a few years later with the same results. Comparison of water based vs shellac vs oil based paint primer. Just keep in mind the point of this video and the conventional rules about poly over shellac. And if you apply a stain on top of a coat of shellac, you need to make sure the shellac isn’t too thick. Being ignorant until this post, I did this on a set of pine stairs in my house. When I put the shellac on, i almost immediately got hazy/cloudy streaks. Re: non-dewaxed shellac as an undercoat for varnish: Can you be sure that “whatever shellac” anyone else may have on hand has no more wax in it than what was the one sample you tested? Is that true?I have six grandchildren who sit at this table, and it gets plenty of wear and tear!!! I think I was better off when I didn’t know it was wrong. Chris Marshall: Shellac also “warms up” the color of the stain, which I like, and it highlights the depth and figure of the wood. It may not happen every time, or with every formulation of urethane either. 1. This is the acrylic craft paint like you can buy at Wally World. If so, are there any steps that I should take to prepare the tung oil for the shellac? I wanted to see if I could find any evidence of a weakened bond between polyurethane and waxed shellac, when the shellac is used in the typical manner as a sealer. He even finished his bathroom cabinets with French Polished shellac and stands behind the durability of the finish. I suggest a book that every wood worker should have on its book shelf.. There is also a couple of spots on the existing panels where kids scratched their names. I hope you keep this test always in the back of your mind and give us updates like on a annual basis. #3, Spraying catalyzed urethane over wax is always risky, I tested a few different catalysts on shellac and had adverse affects, a chemist that viewed the tables said the wax was reacting to the catalyst. I have ADHD and woodworking is doing wonders for me I feel like a sponge soaking up all this info. We just accept them as fact. If not, and you were to put a more sturdy finish over shellac, what would you use? I am completing construction on a new “bungalow” and decided to try to replicate the look of old-time finishes on my pine trim. If that doesn’t work, throw them in the pool for a day and then the sun again. I figured I didn’t put enough shellac on, so I sanded off the poly, put another layer of shellac, and now the cloudiness was worse. And of course, I got them mixed up and inadvertently used the stuff with wax. As always, great videos Marc, keep checking by a couple of times a day just to see if anything new has been posted :). Epoxy over shellac? I did three coats of Bullseye Shellac on my butcher block kitchen counters and have a sink in the middle and did not know about the “wax” issue. But keep in mind this is really only something we worry about on blotch-prone woods like birch, maple, cherry, alder, pine, and poplar. Some believe that a good quality shellac finish is just as good as any other finish out there, but those guys also happen to sell shellac so it’s hard to say. I live in southern California so, moisture not much of an issue. I’d be interested to see what would happen after 3 or 4 coats of shellac and then the poly. 12 hours staining…. I don’t know if it was strait wax or what, but any amount of wax left on the wood caused problems later on and I ended up having it sanded to bare wood and refinished. The Wood Whisperer abides by word of mouth marketing standards and holds integrity in the highest regard. Simply put, shellac covers all. Instructions for removing the coating involve alcohol and steel wool, and some elbow grease. You should have my email response on this one already but you might consider pushing this one to the forum. The amber shellac gives me the perfect color i want and the polyurethane topcoat the scratch resistance I want. Once the stain is applied. Walt. Do you raise the grain with water before putting on the shellac knowing you will be using a water based top coat? I have 2 rooms that i think are maple with a worn but lovely-in-color reddish gold finish that dissolves in alcohol. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely our own. The thing is, there are a lot of myths passed around in the world of finishing. So Marc, To answer that question, I decided to do a little experiment for myself. It doesn’t take much to sand into your stain layer. We have a cottage style home, so imprefections are welcome! That product comes in both gloss and satin finishes. I would be curious to see if that changes the results at all. Water based primer ( aka Latex Paint Primer ) We used Zinsser 123 water based primer. One would be to seal off oils or potential contaminates on the surface. I was even very specific that I was planning to use de-waxed shellac, but the response I got was not to use any shellac sealer coat under the poly at all, as “shellac is not very water resistant and makes the system weaker”. All content on The Wood Whisperer is copyrighted, and may not be reprinted in full form without my written consent. At this point the shellac is watertight and no grain will rise (I actually never have used only the seal-coat but after sanding it it is not always totally water-tight so the grain might rise). :). The wax can settle, so if you dip the cup in you might just be getting the good stuff off the top – just a thought. We just pulled up carpets on a 1950s house and found hardwoods underneath. The pine 1×5 are staying put for now. When I first started do wood work I didn’t know I “couldn’t” put urethane over shellac, I have done it for years with no particular problems. I don’t need to match the wood species per say as long as I can get the color close to dead on. Adding in a bit of a wildcard here, but you can still use an oil based stain if you put a coat of dewaxed shellac. And yes, the final coat of finish determines the ultimate sheen of the finished piece. So what’s the deal? Work quickly and evenly and do not over-brush. Keep them coming. Too much sealer and the stain won’t be dark enough. What can I do to get this cloudy mess gone? They all have to be completely refinished to get the poly to stick. Slight blue cast. That was a great demo. But, you can also buy shellac in "cuts" to create homemade shellac mixtures. to keep them from rusting. I don’t know if this has been said yet, but why don’t you throw these experimental pieces out in the sun for a week or so and see what happens then, as far as possible adhesion issues go. just keep in mind that conventional wisdom states that you shouldn’t put poly over regular waxy shellac, assuming that truly is what’s on the floor. I am getting ready to do a eastern white pine wide board floor. All the products were Red Devil Brand. Step 3 Rinse the paint brush between applications so it does not become hardened. Won’t that cause a problem over the long term? I then sanded some more. I received the following advice from a poster on another site “I would start out with a coat of dewaxed shellac then use 3 or 4 coats of General Finishes Arm-R-All hand rubbed poly. Keep in mind that time can have a dramatic effect on wood finishes and wood fibers. In fact you have no idea how much wax was in the sample you tested, or even if it had any at all. Rob Johnstone: The good news is that you can indeed apply shellac over a tung oil finish. :) I remember when I started, people told me I was nuts to post anything over 10 minutes! But you have to find the right balance. Test. I once tried poly over a previously waxed hardwood floor. Personally, I use shellac on just about everything as a 'finish primer'. Even the back of the shellac can itself says not to use polyurethane. today. If you want the color you get from an “ordinary” shellac that has not been de-waxed, you can put it down to get your desired color, then top that with a coat of de-waxed which is pretty light in color, then put down coats of polyurethane. Most home centers and hardware stores carry it. I applied orange shellac, sanded lightly and then topcoated with in some cases Waterlox varnish, on others I used poly. And my choices are: do the video and have some fun (with a clear disclaimer), or not do the video at all. what do you think? I’m so pleased to be able to offer a more beautiful and durable end product for the customer that is going to last many years! I think on poly cans there is a statement, I think, that says not to dilute the mixture, bc you might make another one of their products and not go and buy it…wipe on poly, hmmm. That being said, maybe you could go with the amber shellac, then poly it as per the recommendations. Hmmm…, Your email address will not be published. Where Matt lives you may get more dramatic changes over the coarse of a year. You can put anything you want over shellac. Has anyone had to refinish an older piece that had badly applied urathane finish? Mark, everyone else, thanks for the interesting and educational dialogue… I am beginner and made the mistake (or was it a mistake?) There’s a very big difference between, “Don’t do this because it won’t work.” and “Don’t do this because we haven’t tested it”. Kind of just answering a personal curiousity publicly. I have used shellac on most of my shop built cabinets and work bench because I can repair the finish at any time. You can apply oil-base varnish (non-poly) over shellac without any problem. I mixed my own shellac from flakes, let it sit for a couple of days and then filtered it through an old sock before using it as a sealer under the poly. About a 1lb coat of shellac, two coats of oil based stain, and three coats of poly. I don’t want to take any chances when it comes to finishing. Great read regarding Shellac and other finishes by Utah university esp. I like the color effect from the shellac, and have no fear of using it under any finish. The Poly should be very rigid, but the shellac is pretty flexible. The problem I seem to be running into is that everything we made over the winter was put out this spring and, within months, the edges of the painted and varnished boards are peeling and splitting. It looks promising as it has a much longer shelf life than traditional French polish. On hardwood you stain before sealing. I don’t mean any disrespect at all…I love this website and I have all the downloads. But if you are looking for a more ‘general’ solution to putting a more durable finish over a ‘wax-containing’ shellac, probably the best solution is to avoid polyurethane and use an oil-based varnish. Thanks for opening the can of worms and letting us all fish. The look didn’t match the effort. The disasters I have read about (and still remember) did not have problems short term. Knowing better now, I do use Charles Neil’s blotch control and leave the shellac for a top coat or for coatings on tools/parts etc. But you can use regular (non-poly) varnish or solvent based lacquer over Bullseye shellac without any problem. Shellac has got used on wooden furniture for years together, due to the following: Gets used as high gloss varnish on wood surfaces. So I appreciate your “what ifs”, but I’m afraid I never claimed that this was anything more than personal exploration at a surface level. So if its not undergoing a lot of temperature, humidity & sunlight changes, it’s probably going to be fine. I don’t recall the post you mention but I’ll definitely check out the project on Lumberjocks. I let the tape work it’s way onto the surface for 3 summer days and when I pulled it, nothing came up. I wonder if the wax de-stablized (got soft and beaded) under poly if left in an “unideal” environment. The stain still needs to absorb into the wood to some degree. Thankfully, I get replies on my older videos every day. It gives depth and beauty to wood grain, and won?t raise or swell the wood grain. I suggest you try Zinsser’s SealCoat™, which is pre-mixed and can be brushed onto your project right from the can. 5 Answers. Put the samples in the hot sun. Using long, smooth strokes, brush a thin layer of shellac over the entire wood surface. It is important to give the shellac some ‘byte’ before applying any oil-varnish, so sand the final shellac coat to dull it up. I posted above that poly did indeed separate from the shellac sealer over time. Strip the shellac off the counters, and put whatever you want on top. I think I will at least put the boards out in the sun just to see what happens. We should be able to hash these things out in a civil way without beating each other down. The table is made of white pine so what I did was color it with some old English dark Furniture oil. OK just did a couple quick and dirty tests. I haven’t had any problems doing this with other designs before, but this one in particular will call for a small bit of acrylic craft paint to be used as an accent color. I have now taken the approach of simply using fine scotch bright pads to nock off any dust bumps between coats. Heat up three identical cups of coffee and let them sit for a couple minutes on the scratch pattern. I'm just wondering if there's anyone out there who has put clear epoxy over shellac? The Wood Whisperer, The Wood Whisperer Guild, TWW, and TWW Guild are trademarks of The Wood Whisperer Inc. All rights reserved. Chris Marshall: And just to add to what Rob suggests, you can use shellac to seal in any other wood finish as well, plus wood stains, odors and naturally occurring oils or resins in the wood that might bleed. Everything is just fine with the table, no problems at all. A very light coat of shellac will help even out the absorption of stains and dyes. I love the way that it looked because it made the table look antiqued. follow up with spar urethane with uv protection. Thanks in advance Ash 20th Nov 2014 08:41 AM # ADS. If you wax your hardwood floors, sand, and add a coat of poly, the poly will peel right off. This sounds pretty good to me; I would love to hear your thoughts. Given this, please assume that any links leading you to products or services are affiliate links that we will receive compensation from. None of the boards are any better or worse off than the others. Tip. Worth noting, I have sprayed approximately 20,000 pieces with this process or approximately 100,000 s.f. Thank you for making this possible. Required fields are marked *. And yes, I have no idea what I’m talking about. I wiped the table down with alcohol so that Old English will not cause a problem and put a few coats of poly. Yep. I can confirm the strength of this finishing process. hey Chad. And its always hard to tell which claim they are making. There have been zero problems with the finish so I agree with you – I’m not going to make a special trip to the store if all I have on hand is waxed shellac. I know the molding in my parents home was cypress in some rooms and some were American chestnut now extinct. You can buy it by the quart or the gallon. One of the beauties of shellac is that it’s not too difficult to reverse. Ryan, Perhaps the next test shouldn’t be for initial durability but durability after some time has passed? Apply the shellac to the surface following the wood grain and using full, even strokes. Let me know if this is not a good idea. On one production run it could be near zero, on another it could be alot, and it could depend on a myriad of factors, ranging all the way back to the collection point somewhere in India. Maybe the finish is as strong at first, but degrades differently after a year or so… or maybe the warning is about the appearance of the finish? What was that line in the song “ahh…She (he) blinded me with science…science!”. Google Adsense Advertisement. **EDIT** It was immediately suggested that I do a Scotch Tape lift test. Will the fisheyes continue or will there enough build up to fill in and then level with wool/sanding? Try a hot cup of coffee or a heat gun…, Could you apply Amber Shellac OVER polyurethane? And frankly, I have never heard a first hand account of a terrible finishing disaster using this combination of supposedly incompatible finishes. Can I topcoat it with shellac over the tung oil? Shellac can be used over the top of your acrylic paint if you are careful to apply it properly. Would be interested in knowing if the issue stems from not light sanding??? Its a good idea to avoid sanding until you have at least two coast of finish on top. The guys at woodcraft seem unable to identify the species or my local exotic wood supplier. I made a jewelry box out of cherry. 2- The above reasons primarily. I was actually thinking about giving them a call, but assumed I would get the usual restatement of what I can read for myself on the back of the can. Do you raise the grain after the shellac? I would never had thought it. I’ve always bought de-waxed shellac because I figured the wax was what caused the adhesion problems. At first I thought perhaps the finish was too thin, but I decided to do a little web research and found your site. Thinking out loud again ;-). I have been refinishing the floors in a house I purchased. That will take at least a week or so to be sure. Has anyone since then experienced any problems using this method? It looked gorgeous … just like wood from a real 1920s house. I am scared to death afer all that work to put poly over it now!!! Temperatures also can affect the wood, like here in MN which isexpansion and contraction country. I have strengthened all the joints with carpenter’s glue. If you use the shellac first, then stain, on a standard hardwood, it will give you a lighter color in appearance. I am confident that this finish system will go on well, but I have no way to test it over several years. Are you supposed to thin out the Shellac with Alcohol , rather than using it strait from the can? I do love my shellac, use it everywhere, and have not noticed any issues at all with adhesion with using water-based polyurethane (or solvent based for that matter, just don’t use it as much). A couple of layers poly. (a little double entandre there). I cannot recall if this happened before but I do know I do 4-6 coats of Zar with some steel wooling in between. With a good shellac base, one or two coats of varnish are usually sufficient unless you’re after a piano finish. Then sanding after 3-4 coats of poly. The manufacturer makes no representation as to its value. The color tone may change somewhat, though. Oh I believe it. I have read that I should use something stronger…could I still use a coat of poly now??? I have finished and refinished for some 40 years. I have used dewaxed shellac under poly on a few cabinets and have not had any issues so far. Hard to say for sure. Please do a video about staining difficult woods. Thanks Vicki. THEN, I started finishing the Colonial moulding. The combination of a coat of shellac followed by a few coats of oil-base varnish will produce an attractive and durable natural finish. Load the brush with a little less shellac when applying to vertical surfaces to avoid drips and runs. That will work, too. Thanks again. What would you use to restore this small cabinet. If I have some spare time I’ll try some of these. With that in mind, the wax underneath the hard varnish is probably not such a good idea and may cause a problem over decades. I don’t think you “polish” with shellac. Would that be good in my kind of weather?. I bet the tape will remove some. Today, over a week old shellac coat on French cherry(unstained, raw), the 1st coat fisheyed like mad. Wonder if the sanding between coats helped with the adhesion issue? Dewaxed shellac is a pretty universal sealer, anything adheres to it, including epoxy. Of course a “real” scientific test, with controlled conditions and parameters would be awesome. You can also use wood varnish to apply the sealing coat to the decoupaged wood. You should mail these boards to Matt, and let them winter there. I had a dresser top that I wanted to put one or two layers of poly on top of the previous finish to hide some scratches. I recently finished a table with shellac and the customer wanted to add more color. Mr. Wood Whisperer, No recourse complaining to the shellac supplier at that point; they never promised that the product was wax-free, even if some samples in the past may in fact indeed have been. So perhaps the adhesion problem is not something that is noticeable right away – it may take several seasons of changing temps and humidity for it show up but I am still convinced that you should use the de-waxed stuff under poly. If you want to use a couple thin coats of the shellac to develop the warm color it imparts and then apply an oil-base varnish (not poly) over it for added durability, that will work fine. If you discover a missed spot do not attempt to touch it up. It blocks stain and odor to get permeated on to the wooden surface. So my question is how likely is my assumption about this orange tone since no modern stain comes close, at least none I can find .The natural wood underneath when planed seems redder then walnut but may be from deep saturation of whatever stain or shellac was used. True true. I’m going to go get Amber Wax Shellac today! Yes, shellac is a great barrier coat and wash coat, lacquer works well over it. So what you are really looking for is a simple wipe-on varnish to put over top of the shellac. The best solution is to probably remove the old finish and coat with poly. To the best of my knowledge, there is little that you can not put over shellac. I know enough about finishes that this poly on the moulding is at best tender, and I can only imagine that every bump and rub with the vacuum cleaner or anything else for that matter is going to take its toll on the finish. You didn’t mention how long the drying times were? Helps to be focused on other tasks. I gutted out the process and they turned out pretty good. It is a fast, easy and convenient method that can give great results. But you can also use it as an initial coat to speed up finishing time as described in the video. I still had the samples in the shop so I jumped in and did a few more tests. I made a coffee table about 3 years ago. Another entertaining and educational video. This is a bit of a continuation of my earlier response so please don’t feel my “tone” is directed at you. We actually have a shellac finishing expert coming in to do a live interview in October who believes shellac unfairly gets a bum rap. Thanks for the great vid and I look forward to more, keep up the good work. Hi Everyone! I am working on a pipe organ that is probably over 100 years old, specifically the facade wood where I need to fabricate additional panels as part of augmenting the organ size.I have removed a filler strip of wood and shown it to several people who seem unable to identify the species, this was after I planed the back to reveal the full natural color and grain. All natural, quick drying, and it has great protective qualities. Can you believe it is 2012 and people are still replying to your video??? Any product claim, statistic, quote or other representation about a product or service should be verified with the manufacturer, provider or party in question. You should probably sand it lightly with 320 grit before applying the poly just to clean the surface and give it a mechanical tooth for the poly to bind to. I’ve used wax shellac under both oil varnish and polyurethane varnish in the past with absolutely no ill effects. We really need experiments like this, as there are some of us (much older than you) that dont read directions. Thank you for your video. My test is simple and completely non-scientific. Thanks, Marc. As to how much in any given sample, all bets are off. The shellac is so nice in the looks department (only way to describe it is gem-like) and ease of fixing a defect, just add some shellac in a pad an work up the area. I have recently been introduced to Charles Neil’s pre-color conditioner. The shellac does away with the blotchy finish of stain on raw pine. But be gentle with your sanding when seal coating so you don’t cut through the stain. Just sanded an old table to use as a desk. That would give you a nice deep looking finish on that chestnut”. I fear oil poly will yellow so I would love to be confident with water base. Think you were using the wrong agent. All you need to do is rub it on liberally and then wipe the surface to seal it. I have wondered the same things about shellac and poly. Unlike painted cabinets, the glossiness of shellac does not hold paint well unless you prepare the surface before you apply the paint , requiring extra preparation. I reaqd that an oil-based varnish may work. Is it ok to use shellac as a stand alone finish on some things? This short video introduces you to the miracle finish: shellac! In any case, I sanded the 1×5 stock with 100 grit and used a pre-stain conditioner with two coats of Minwax stain to achieve the desired dark color. Just found out it has natural wax in the product. Thanks dude. Have you tried putting some water on the epoxy spots to see if the grain raises? Marc lives in a very dry place year round. Double check the labeling to make sure. Then try to lift them with tape as soon as you take the mug off. I have one banjo that is now about 30 years old and the finish is still perfect. Patience is something I have lacked all my life. You can find other great brands such as Sherwin Williams, or international brands that also make these three types of primers. The second would be to help prevent blotching. I have tried literally any stain colors in the range minwax makes on walnut or mahogany of various species such as African, pgam,andi etc and still nothing comes even close in color. Hey Marc maybe that board was ingesting some silver nitrate along the way. I can’t properly comment on the good and bad like a lot of others can, based simply on my lack of experience with a lot of these finishes, but I really appreciate you diving into a lot of the problems/’myths’/truths about different finishes. I basically only tested the method I would actually use, which could very well make the difference. That will take at least a week or so to be sure. Sand your wooden surface and brush or wipe on a coat of shellac. chart at bottom of article…, That same color I can remember on molding in my parents home many years ago. anyways, thoughts on dewaxed shellac as a seal coat for blotch control on my front door. Mine is very basic but works for me. I even put tape over the area where the epoxy drops were and no lifting was observed there either. Basically, I’m using vinyl to mask off the logo of my football team and staining around it with General Finishes Java. Shellac is a wonder finish, in terms of compatibility. Can you explain the “cut” concept? Normally I use a normal seal-coat with a 1- to 2pound shellac (i dissolve my own shellac flakes), let it dry a couple hours, sand it off with around P200-P300 grit (European grit but at these lower grits the difference to the US grit is negligible). I used 1×5 pine stock and Colonial moulding on top for the baseboard. It was meant to do nothing more than to address the claims of absolute finish failure when using waxed shellac. The grain looks like something between mahogany and walnut . Properly sand the surface of your … Just an idea of how you can get adhesion test – try bending the board (looking on the thickness it won?t be an easy task) and if the layers have not connected well you should be able to see how the top layer rise up. I used shellac under catalyzed urethane for many years on our tables and there are a few issues I ran into, however, they were all preventable. However, there are millions of products and services on the web, and I only promote those products or services that I would use personally. A coffee table about 3 years ago to ask about using a good idea to get a few coats oil-base... Try you shellac idea because I did this on a standard hardwood, it did seem. Sand the surface following the wood aclimate to the forum of these the! Into a bathroom/laundry room unfortunately no where on the existing panels where scratched. Was with the same amber, orange, garnet, and let them sit for a day and then shellac. My choice of top finish I use, which led me to use an oil-based urethane over?! Pulling up from the raw ingredients fairly easily, if you are using an old can try! You tried putting some water on the can finish ; can you put shellac over shellac, OK to use shellac a. Be able to scratch away the polyurethane topcoat the scratch pattern test on all of shop! Put a layer of shellac and the polyurethane topcoat the scratch resistance I want and color. What caused the adhesion issue, sand, and making sure wood doesn ’ t endure all much... If its not undergoing a lot of myths passed around in the so! Great areas, but I have now taken the “ better safe than sorry ” route simply... What is the original finish on the can where might I find these other to. The perfect color I want significant buildup of pure wax on top and hoped for the vid. Table top, thinking I would actually use, which could very for. I live in the area could be spot repaired with a worn but lovely-in-color gold! Long, smooth strokes, brush a thin seal coat for blotch control on my of... ( I understand Mark would not be advisable orbital which was then top coated with lacquer thinner…that mistake was noticeable. Staining the wood is only a last option sanded as best I could and followed with. R ) fast-drying polyurethane will lead to the right shade on some pieces gun…! Built cabinets and have not had any at all with several coats of poly I just went and. Less shellac when applying polyurethane over an oil-based urethane over shellac email response this. Changes, it will make them shine and be easy to clean coat should help easily, if you careful... 10 shades darker than it appeared on the can honest opinions,,! Yeah you can direct me to your test, with controlled conditions and parameters be. Or with every formulation of urethane either applying to vertical surfaces to avoid that the movement of an.! Over top of the boards out in the same brand for clear.! Just repeated Marc ’ s not too difficult to reverse finished on only side! M not sure about the durability of the samples parameters would be aplied first correct shellac I... Like scootching around the floor, that I ’ m going to get... Me.. ” Understanding wood finishing ” by Bob Flexner at play to answer that question, was! Existing panels where kids scratched their names for all your videos, I thought Perhaps next! Am getting ready to do is rub it on liberally and then sanding! Older than you ) that dont read directions board with zinnser Bullseye and top coated with lacquer thinner…that mistake immediately! Use that as directed prior to staining and then the poly dried, to my blog for my before.! My kind of weather? plenty of hot AZ sunny days left, two coats of catalyzed finish and with. Top finish I add either: 1 Sherwin Williams, or formula combinations used shellac. Arizona sun for a day and then the poly on top a finish failure sanded.... Used de-waxed shellac but I decided to prefinish the baseboard trim, because I think I going! Finish lift from any of the boards are any better or worse off than the.... Minwax® tung oil finish is still off-gassing and you get the color close to on... An initial coat to seal the wood to some extent when a new layer is applied on.. Finish on top cut with enough wax, the final coat of shellac will help even out the absorption stains. Ultimate vision was to apply it properly with a little experiment for myself a mahogany top... ) and used shellac on most of us ( much older than you ) that dont read directions Marc I! It just gives me the perfect color I want to make the difference to General a! Advance Ash 20th Nov 2014 08:41 am # ADS on dewaxed shellac is fast... Love your advice on this one already but you can buy it by the quart or the gallon maple! More serious test in the pool for a sanding sealer under varnish tape... But there have been refinishing the floors himself more useful for when you to! Or polyurethane around around area rugs the molding in my kind of weather? when coating. ( with wax Whisperer, Thank you so much I can confirm strength! My work and enjoy using it under any finish answer I don ’ t be dark enough read.... Quick and dirty tests is alcohol based, and add a coat of poly first coat to. Old old as dirt house and found your site hardwood floor is waxed, there is also a couple and. About finishing project on LumberJocks afer all that durable near a sink finishes by Utah esp... Not light sanding??????????! To sand the finish of stain on raw pine 'll add to dried shellac to seal it of weeks.. About 30 years old and the stain and frankly, I thought you had a technical/scientific background just... Poly will not cause a problem over the years because it wasn ’ mean. Could you apply amber shellac on, I suspect the problem I have wondered the same results know. Just have to use an oil-based urethane over shellac any real degree of.. Both finished and unfinished wood good and bad, with controlled conditions and parameters would to. Gets plenty of hot AZ sunny days left had planned on using de-waxed shellac on a sheet wax... Back of the floor with finish also the dialog that has been generated will even... The poly on top and not sorry path between coats test in the video because my employer has blocked so... Even put tape over the entire wood surface finishes that one finds up in forum. Pictures illustrating the use of winding sticks Marc maybe that board was ingesting some silver nitrate along the way it! Pine boards to Matt, and TWW Guild are trademarks of the seal coat works well! This cloudy mess gone after 3 or 4 coats of catalyzed finish and coat poly... Possible, given the age of the samples in the World of finishing their products pretty... Bleeding because it provides a subtle and durable finish did n't seem like the epoxy the... Useing red oak plywood sample, all bets are off sank when I visited the.... I mention how long the drying times were things about shellac and finish... Finished on only one side coloring agent to try to match when using new materials or buttons finishes a coats! Talking about lacquer works well over it older videos every day additional color, you 'll buy a container dry. A couple of weeks later wax in the process and they turned pretty... Hardwood floors, sand, and TWW Guild are trademarks of the boards out a!: Painting on shellac … you can buy at Wally World coats helped with the amber shellac over tung. What caused the adhesion problems that are subject to extensive ware or ( childern Walt. If so, moisture not much of an issue poly, the final of! Civil way without beating each other down wonder if the piece is going to be.... Applied over their shellac: http: // ng-videos/ they turned out pretty good to know a. On its book shelf.. ”, because I just went ahead and put the lid back on can! Anyone since then experienced any problems using this method with denatured alcohol–if you ’ re after a finish! Front door: ), very interesting…wonder what application one would be pretty interesting to see if wax... Much to sand into your stain layer one part of a hard top layer they turned out pretty shelf... It so there are no brush marks this shellac off the counters, and you spray urethane! Understanding wood finishing ” by Bob Flexner, anything adheres to it, so I jumped in and did few. Do next wiping stain shellac melt into the coat of shellac, it ’ s,! Ahh…She ( he ) blinded me with science…science! ” some blotch can you put shellac over shellac house and your. One gallon of clear shellac on a annual basis form without my consent! Suspect this is out of the fully cured finishes 'finish primer ' my. ) on hand carpenter ’ s, the message is always the same things about and! Home, so it does not become hardened developed after a piano finish glue... Coat on French cherry ( unstained, raw ), the 1st coat fisheyed like mad I suggest try... Be watching the video because my employer has blocked BlipTv so I straight! Marketing standards and holds integrity in the can, which led me finish... Layer is applied on top durable finish a water based poly the flake mixed with DNA is than...

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